Birdman1 goes quadcopter

After this project http://birdman1goesoctocopter.blogspot.com/ I really got the taste of it, and guess what ?

Some parts of the blog will be copy/ paste from my octo blog, this to make it as complete as possible!

Let's start and unpack what we have till now!

Ok we got the 1.35 FC board, 4 Bl, 4 capacitors, and the ppm decoder+ usb connector and 10t cable

and ofcourse the navi and gps control unit.

Chapter 1:  UNPACKING

brushless motors + cable set

and quadframe

Chapter 2:   BASIC FRAME PREPARATION

Placing the rubber dampers, dont forget to use BLUE loctite

depending on which software u plan on using you can later on change the + DESIGN TO X 

I will be flying in + style for now.

Dry fit FC to frame.looks perfect!

Chapter 3:  INSTALL THE MOTORS

I plan on runnig the cables through the carbon rod  , so first make sure that you break the corner from the  carbon tube (on the inside--> grey part)

 I 

This is how  we did it = takes 5 min to do the mod

 STEP 1  

STEP 2 

STEP 3

Below you find the result, no special parts where needed to mount the brushless motors on the quad frame.

Chapter 4:  PREPARING THE MOTOR's

My soldertips and tools

Let's start soldering, make sure that you have the right solderskills

 and keep this in mind

My soldertools

Make sure that you have FLUX , use it at all placeswhere you need to solder  ( the grease kind , not the liquid one)

To check each solder connection I use a magnifying glass with LED, so no shadow when checking a weld or tight spot, you can perfectly check each connection that you made!!

Ok, now we are ready to start soldering, you have different ways of soldering one cable to another

In this case i go for ultra strong connection,  first bring flux/solder on both cables separate, them bring them aside from each other and reheat   done!  

Break the corner from carbon rod properly!!

DRY TEST

I came to conclusion after the dry test that there was little room for all cables to run through the connection, so to protect them i used a piece of 2 cm shrink tube NOW ATTENTION--> first twist as match as possibly the  cables on the inside of the carbon tube, like that we reduce/avoid any future interference from those, now slide on the shirktube and push it 1 cm in to the tube ( so 1 cm out )

And heat ofcourse! the 1 cm the tube will not shrink , but it does what it is suppost to do , protect the cables!

Chapter 5: ADDRESSING THE BL

Address (Motor)	1-2	2-3
1 (front)	open	open
2 (back)	open	closed
3 (right)	closed	open
4 (left)	closed	closed

  

chapter 6: PREPARING BL

Next thing , check which firmware is loaded on bl and check your addressing 

OK, all perfect!

chapter 7 : BL INSTALLATION  

solder the powerbus and SDA( BLUE cable + SCL(RED cable)

 powercables +- 14 cm depending on which route you take

sda/scl cable +- 12 cm (twist cable to reduce interference!!!)

 The Bl carry's not the best reputation , the amps that we can draw are very limited, so cooling down the mosfets as mutch as possible is the message --> that will protect our gear to the maximun!

I will place the Bl between the alu frame so that both sides touch frame and draw the heat away.

 first we need some Alu

 cut a stripe from +- 10 mm wide

 cut in to 4 pcs from +- 18 mm

 

I use cooling paste between the little piece of Aluminium and bl + frame

first place a double sided sticker from +- 1.5 mm thick (DIY mirror tape)

now put some cooling paste on the mosfets

Position the mini alu plate

This is how I plan on cooling the bl as mutch as possible--slide your "BL-SANDWICH" between the frame and make sure that everything has a tight grip (dont forget cooling paste between alu/ mosfets /frame )

PERFECT FIT!!

Repeat proces with remaining 3 bl

Connect the MINI power distributionboard

First bring some solder on the complete board (be royal with it)

This is where I will place the POWER distribution

Connect the first power wire's, pay attention about correct polarity!

All done

connect the powercables for the FC

Connect the main C/D wire

 and the small c/d cables from esc to distributionboard

Main power cable's

And then i placed a special isolating "carpet" below the distributionboard

Solder the main c/d connection to FC

PREPARING THE PPM CONVERTER

and buzzer

buzzer and ppm converter solderpoints on the FX

Now mount everything on your frame!